Along the Mediterranean coast of France, you’ll find a small charming city with 300 days of sun a year. Montpellier is as beautiful in the spring as in the autumn. It is the perfect combination of city and beach break from Easter all the way to the end of September. And it is surprisingly charming over Christmas as well, with its Christmas markets, mulled wine and a huge lit up globe in the city centre.
Montpellier will always have a special place in my heart. After finishing school before university, I spent my gap year there. It was my first time living away from home. As if it wasn’t daunting enough to fly the nest, I decided to fly all the way to France from Norway. Not only that, I just had school French to lean on. Anyone who has learned a second language at school would know that it wasn’t much. However, I was there to learn. Nine months, a crash course in adult life, a DALF C1 diploma in French and a group of lifelong friends later, it turned out to be a year exceeding all expectations.
Here is the ultimate guide to the city of my heart!
TO EAT AND DRINK
The goal for my gap year was to learn French, drink red wine and eat cheese. And oh, boy did we eat.
Boulangerie
Des Rêves et du Pain
I’ve only listed one boulangerie because it is the only one you’ll need. This delightful little baker was named the best boulangerie in France in 2015 and in 2018 it won the districts special prize for bakers. Go here for the most excellent croissants, pain au chocolat, baguettes and whatever else your heart desires.
Lunch
Chez Alphonse
For 10euros you’ll a lovely Spanish lunch consisting of four pintxos (a piece of baguette with cheese, meat, olives, whatever the chef has come up with) a small salad and a glass of wine. An absolute barging for a fantastic experience!
Coldrip Food & Coffee
They do a wonderful avocado on toast with a poached egg and an equally tasty pulled pork. It is the perfect place to go for brunch after a long night out.
Coffee Club
This small café has a map of the world where all the guests have placed a pin in the city they’re from. They serve fantastic smoothies, cakes and coffee. I think one of the owners might be English because during autumn they serve a traditional cinnamon bun with lots of lovely frosting.
Dinner
Mi Barrio
Whenever I had friends or family visiting, or my friends and I wanted to do something nice we would go to Mi Barrio. Ask the friendly owner for a table, order as many tapas dishes as you’d like and a bottle of wine and you’re in for a treat.
Moutarde et Wasabi
This cute little place has outdoor seating in a lovely small square. I can recommend sushi with Japanese beer and the red cabbage salad as a side dish.
Maria Cantina
This Mexican taco restaurant serves fantastic quesadillas and spicy tacos.
Bars
Rebuffy
The place to go for cheap drinks. We usually would do pre-drinks in someone’s apartment with wine from Monoprix. But if you want to meet up before you hit the clubs, this is the place to be.
The egg
Straight across from Mi Barrio is The Egg, where hey also serve tapas. However, it is more expensive, and you don’t really need to look any further once you’ve found Mi Barrio. You will most likely not be the only ones who want to eat at Mi Barrio so if there is a wait I recommend getting something to drink at The Egg first.
French nightlife, not that I’m an expert on nightlives either here nor there, is just like everywhere else, except the French go out late. Very late. We used to have dinner from around seven, pre-drinks from around 10pm or 10:30pm, hitting town around 01:30am and returning home, well I’m not sure really … personally, I’ve stayed out to 3am, but I know some of the French head home around 5am.
Panama
A horribly tacky place on so many levels. Regardless I’ve had some fun nights out there. It’s free to enter, and they play popular music on the first floor and more latino on the second floor. Just make sure to stick to your group and watch out for intrusive men seeking attention.
Australian bar
This place I’ve only been once, but it was a fantastic evening. Little out of the city centre, but less tacky and intrusive people. They play great popular music and serve cheap beer.
Rockstore
They host indie concerts and themed club nights. The entry fee is quite pricey, but they do offer student discounts. Getting dressed up for the 90s party is always fun.
The Black Sheep
Hosts small intimate indie concerts every Thursday, and it is only a 5 euro entry. This is a bit of a hit or miss place, sometimes you’ll get to listen to some great music, other times you’ll witness a performance like no other…
Either you need a relaxing activity after a wild night out, or you’re interested in art, Montpellier has something for everyone.
La Panacée
This fascinating contemporary art museum is definitely worth a visit. Even if you’re not particularly fond of contemporary art, the café with its lovely back garden is worth a visit in itself.
Pavillon Populaire
If photography is more your thing, I’d recommend Pavillon Populaire. It is free to enter. They regularly change their exhibitions, so there is always something new to see. One of my favourites was the exhibition with the photography of Louise Dahl-Wolfe.
Musée Fabre
Is the main museum for art in Montpellier. Either you’re there for their free exhibitions or their seasonal ones with an entry fee, it is always worth visiting for the air-conditioning.
Jardin des plantes
Wander around this free garden with a camera, a book or a friend. I guarantee you’ll spend the whole afternoon gushing over all the succulents.
Get lost in the old town
Quartier de L’Ancien Courrier and Rue de Université are two of my favourites, but there is always new streets and alleys to discover. Also worth a visit if you’re looking for shops and boutiques, you won’t find elsewhere.
Promenade du Peyrou
Once you’ve bought the loveliest croissants at Des Rêves et du Pain, you should follow the street further up, and you’ll see Promenade du Peyrou. You’ll find the majestic statue of a horse-riding Louis XIV and the iconic Saint-Clément aqueduct, as well as benches perfectly situated under some trees to enjoy your croissants.
Sunday Market
Des Rêves et du Pain is sadly closed on Sundays, but it is still worth visiting Promenade du Peyrou for the Sunday market. Here you can buy all the antiques your heart desires as well as some great vintage jeans!
Sit at the roof of Corum
If Opera is your cup of tea, I suggest you go inside the Corum, which is Montpellier’s opera house and conference centre. If not the roof of Corum is the place for you. Pop by Monoprix first, buy some food and drinks and enjoy the view from the top of Corum. Just a warning though, it gets hot there during the summers, and they close at 5pm, so this is more of an activity for the other seasons.
Take the tourist train
This cute little tourist train sadly doesn’t have the best headphones, but even without hearing much of the information it was fun to see how the train manoeuvred through the narrow streets of the old town. It is also a great way to scout out where to eat lunch afterwards!
Go to the beach!
It’s beach time all the way from late March to early October if you’re an enthusiast. The beach is a little out of the city, but it’s a great way to escape the heat of the centre. Take the tram from the city centre and then the bus, which is free during the summer, cover yourself in SPF and enjoy the sand and the sea.
Beach directions
Cheese night in the Airbnb
This is a favourite among my friends and I. Buy some cheese, go fancy with cheese form the fromageries or student friendly with cheese form Monoprix or Intermarché, get some wine and enjoy a relaxing evening in.
Wall art
Before dinner at Moutarde et Wasabi, explore the area for some insta-friendly wall art!
Zoo
The Zoo is actually more of a normal park, just with the odd giraffe and other exotic animals popping up here and there. It is free to enter, and it’s perfect for a relaxing stroll or an energetic run.
Zoo info
Montpellier is the place to be for charming independent shops and the best bookstore in the south of France.
Pomme de Reinette et Pomme d’Api
Is a traditional toys store. They have as much fun for adults as children and is perfect for small gifts to bring back home that doesn’t reek of cheap tourist souvenirs.
Maison Emilienne
The area around Mi Barrio is filled with small, lovely boutiques just like the interior shop Maison Emilienne. If you don’t already have overweight on your suitcase with cheese, this is the area to fill it up!
Gilbert Joseph
This is the bookstore dreams are made of! If you don’t already speak French, I guarantee it will be at the top of your new year resolutions list after a visit to Gilbert Joseph. Even if you’re at a beginner level of Doulingo French, you can spend hours on the stationary and art floor or sorting through the vinyl on the music floor.
Here are two links to Airbnb that my friends and I have had great experiences with.
Cozy loft, 2 guests
Flat, 6 guests
From the airport
Take the airport shuttle to and from Place de L’Europe. It is 1,60euro one way and leaves every hour. From there you can take the tram a couple of stops to the city centre.
The tram
The tram is the best way to get around as well as walking. You can buy tickets at every tram stop. If you’re staying a week, I’d highly recommend purchasing the seven-day pass. Even if you think you’ll walk a lot, it is great to be able to just hop on and off the tram as much as you want. Download the Tam Transports de Montpellier for trip planning and real-time updates. Remember to validate the ticket each time you enter.
Des Rêves et du Pain
I’ve only listed one boulangerie because it is the only one you’ll need. This delightful little baker was named the best boulangerie in France in 2015 and in 2018 it won the districts special prize for bakers. Go here for the most excellent croissants, pain au chocolat, baguettes and whatever else your heart desires.
Lunch
Chez Alphonse
For 10euros you’ll a lovely Spanish lunch consisting of four pintxos (a piece of baguette with cheese, meat, olives, whatever the chef has come up with) a small salad and a glass of wine. An absolute barging for a fantastic experience!
Coldrip Food & Coffee
They do a wonderful avocado on toast with a poached egg and an equally tasty pulled pork. It is the perfect place to go for brunch after a long night out.
Coffee Club
This small café has a map of the world where all the guests have placed a pin in the city they’re from. They serve fantastic smoothies, cakes and coffee. I think one of the owners might be English because during autumn they serve a traditional cinnamon bun with lots of lovely frosting.
Mi Barrio
Whenever I had friends or family visiting, or my friends and I wanted to do something nice we would go to Mi Barrio. Ask the friendly owner for a table, order as many tapas dishes as you’d like and a bottle of wine and you’re in for a treat.
Moutarde et Wasabi
This cute little place has outdoor seating in a lovely small square. I can recommend sushi with Japanese beer and the red cabbage salad as a side dish.
Maria Cantina
This Mexican taco restaurant serves fantastic quesadillas and spicy tacos.
Rebuffy
The place to go for cheap drinks. We usually would do pre-drinks in someone’s apartment with wine from Monoprix. But if you want to meet up before you hit the clubs, this is the place to be.
The egg
Straight across from Mi Barrio is The Egg, where hey also serve tapas. However, it is more expensive, and you don’t really need to look any further once you’ve found Mi Barrio. You will most likely not be the only ones who want to eat at Mi Barrio so if there is a wait I recommend getting something to drink at The Egg first.
NIGHTLIFE
Panama
A horribly tacky place on so many levels. Regardless I’ve had some fun nights out there. It’s free to enter, and they play popular music on the first floor and more latino on the second floor. Just make sure to stick to your group and watch out for intrusive men seeking attention.
Australian bar
This place I’ve only been once, but it was a fantastic evening. Little out of the city centre, but less tacky and intrusive people. They play great popular music and serve cheap beer.
Rockstore
They host indie concerts and themed club nights. The entry fee is quite pricey, but they do offer student discounts. Getting dressed up for the 90s party is always fun.
The Black Sheep
Hosts small intimate indie concerts every Thursday, and it is only a 5 euro entry. This is a bit of a hit or miss place, sometimes you’ll get to listen to some great music, other times you’ll witness a performance like no other…
MUSEUMS
La Panacée
This fascinating contemporary art museum is definitely worth a visit. Even if you’re not particularly fond of contemporary art, the café with its lovely back garden is worth a visit in itself.
Pavillon Populaire
If photography is more your thing, I’d recommend Pavillon Populaire. It is free to enter. They regularly change their exhibitions, so there is always something new to see. One of my favourites was the exhibition with the photography of Louise Dahl-Wolfe.
Musée Fabre
Is the main museum for art in Montpellier. Either you’re there for their free exhibitions or their seasonal ones with an entry fee, it is always worth visiting for the air-conditioning.
TO DO
In addition to the museums, there are a lot of other things to do. Keyword being “losing track of time”, either in the gardens, the streets or on the beach.Jardin des plantes
Wander around this free garden with a camera, a book or a friend. I guarantee you’ll spend the whole afternoon gushing over all the succulents.
Get lost in the old town
Quartier de L’Ancien Courrier and Rue de Université are two of my favourites, but there is always new streets and alleys to discover. Also worth a visit if you’re looking for shops and boutiques, you won’t find elsewhere.
Promenade du Peyrou
Once you’ve bought the loveliest croissants at Des Rêves et du Pain, you should follow the street further up, and you’ll see Promenade du Peyrou. You’ll find the majestic statue of a horse-riding Louis XIV and the iconic Saint-Clément aqueduct, as well as benches perfectly situated under some trees to enjoy your croissants.
Des Rêves et du Pain is sadly closed on Sundays, but it is still worth visiting Promenade du Peyrou for the Sunday market. Here you can buy all the antiques your heart desires as well as some great vintage jeans!
Sit at the roof of Corum
If Opera is your cup of tea, I suggest you go inside the Corum, which is Montpellier’s opera house and conference centre. If not the roof of Corum is the place for you. Pop by Monoprix first, buy some food and drinks and enjoy the view from the top of Corum. Just a warning though, it gets hot there during the summers, and they close at 5pm, so this is more of an activity for the other seasons.
This cute little tourist train sadly doesn’t have the best headphones, but even without hearing much of the information it was fun to see how the train manoeuvred through the narrow streets of the old town. It is also a great way to scout out where to eat lunch afterwards!
Go to the beach!
It’s beach time all the way from late March to early October if you’re an enthusiast. The beach is a little out of the city, but it’s a great way to escape the heat of the centre. Take the tram from the city centre and then the bus, which is free during the summer, cover yourself in SPF and enjoy the sand and the sea.
Beach directions
This is a favourite among my friends and I. Buy some cheese, go fancy with cheese form the fromageries or student friendly with cheese form Monoprix or Intermarché, get some wine and enjoy a relaxing evening in.
Wall art
Before dinner at Moutarde et Wasabi, explore the area for some insta-friendly wall art!
Zoo
The Zoo is actually more of a normal park, just with the odd giraffe and other exotic animals popping up here and there. It is free to enter, and it’s perfect for a relaxing stroll or an energetic run.
Zoo info
TO SHOP
Pomme de Reinette et Pomme d’Api
Is a traditional toys store. They have as much fun for adults as children and is perfect for small gifts to bring back home that doesn’t reek of cheap tourist souvenirs.
Maison Emilienne
The area around Mi Barrio is filled with small, lovely boutiques just like the interior shop Maison Emilienne. If you don’t already have overweight on your suitcase with cheese, this is the area to fill it up!
Gilbert Joseph
This is the bookstore dreams are made of! If you don’t already speak French, I guarantee it will be at the top of your new year resolutions list after a visit to Gilbert Joseph. Even if you’re at a beginner level of Doulingo French, you can spend hours on the stationary and art floor or sorting through the vinyl on the music floor.
TO STAY
Cozy loft, 2 guests
Flat, 6 guests
GET AROUND
From the airport
Take the airport shuttle to and from Place de L’Europe. It is 1,60euro one way and leaves every hour. From there you can take the tram a couple of stops to the city centre.
The tram
The tram is the best way to get around as well as walking. You can buy tickets at every tram stop. If you’re staying a week, I’d highly recommend purchasing the seven-day pass. Even if you think you’ll walk a lot, it is great to be able to just hop on and off the tram as much as you want. Download the Tam Transports de Montpellier for trip planning and real-time updates. Remember to validate the ticket each time you enter.
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